I was absolutely awestruck by the dramatic mountain passes, winding their way up as if on a ladder to the sky.

Winding from Mã Phục to Nà Tềnh, then navigating the breathtaking twists of Khau Cốc Chà, and continuing on to Mẻ Pia—these are just some of the awe-inspiring mountain passes that truly mesmerize travelers. They form an unforgettable journey through the scenic Northeast highlands, perfectly capturing the vibrant essence of Cao Bằng.
The Charms of Cao Bằng – Conquering Legendary Passes Amidst Emerald Mountains and Waters
From Mã Phục to Nà Tềnh, then winding through Khau Cốc Chà, followed by Mẻ Pia… these are the breathtaking passes that mesmerize travelers along the scenic route through the highlands of Northeast Vietnam – the vibrant beauty of Cao Bằng.

The winding, perilous road to the sky's summit captivates and enchants countless travelers.
We returned to the vibrant allure of the Cao Bằng highlands, a land of emerald mountains and waterways, just as the first summer thunderstorms swept through the Đồng Mu valley, to visit this border region of endless, towering peaks that sculpt winding, challenging, yet utterly beautiful mountain passes. These views leave every wanderer utterly mesmerized.

The majestic Bản Giốc Waterfall, at the very frontier of our nation.

The vast and poetic Thang Hen Lake.

Pác Pó historical relic site, with its jade-blue Karl Marx Mountain and Lê Nin Stream.
Though not even a decade has passed, the old landscapes and familiar faces have changed remarkably. Alongside the captivating natural scenery and well-known attractions like Bản Giốc Waterfall, Thang Hen Lake, Ngườm Ngao Cave, and Pác Pó, many exciting new destinations have emerged, enchanting countless travelers: the Eye of Thủng Nà Ma Mountain, Phia Oắc - Phia Đén National Park, Nguyên Bình Bamboo Forest, Bản Sầm Waterfall, Nặm Ngùa Waterfall, Ngườm Pục Cave, Khuổi Ky Ancient Stone Village, and Bản Viết Lake...

The mysterious Ngườm Ngao Cave with its millennium-old stalactites and stalagmites.

The Eye of Thủng Nà Ma Mountain, a fascinating new destination that has emerged in just the last five years. It's a place avid travelers often whisper about, a must-visit spot on their itineraries.
Setting off early from Cao Bằng city center, we witnessed the sunrise painting the hills crimson, illuminating the vibrant hues of deep red tiled roofs, brick walls, and tree lines. The entire city transitioned from night to day in a magical spectrum of colors, gradually shifting from deep purple to red, orange, and yellow, subtly appearing through the mist. It was an absolutely exquisite sight, making visitors feel as if they had wandered into a celestial paradise.
Travel enthusiasts are usually quite familiar with Vietnam's 'Four Great Passes': Ô Quy Hồ, Khau Phạ, Mã Pí Lèng, and Pha Đin. On this return journey to explore the charms of Cao Bằng, we continued our conquest of four passes within the Non nước Cao Bằng UNESCO Global Geopark: Mã Phục Pass, Mẻ Pia Pass, Khau Cốc Chà (Trà) Pass, and the 'King of Passes,' Nà Tềnh, with its 20 spectacular hairpin turns.

Mã Phục Pass is 3.5 km long, approximately 700m above sea level, and winds through 7 challenging ascents.
From Cao Bằng City to the Eye of Thủng Nà Ma Mountain, you must cross Mã Phục Pass. This pass is located in Cao Xuyên hamlet, Quốc Toản commune, Trà Lĩnh district, marking the border between Hòa An and Trà Lĩnh districts, about 22 km from the city center. The pass gets its name, Mã Phục (meaning 'resting horse'), from two large rocks that face each other, resembling two horses bowing down.
The pass is also linked to the legend of the talented mountain chieftain Nùng Chí Cao, a Tày ethnic leader who famously drove back Song dynasty invaders, restoring peace to the northern mountainous region. Upon reaching the summit of a steep slope, his horse stopped and collapsed from exhaustion. This image of the resting horse (Mã Phục) perfectly captures the pass's grandeur and formidable nature.

Khau Cốc Chà is part of the Northeast loop, a must-visit for wanderers exploring the mountainous terrain of Cao Bằng.
Next, a major highlight of this trip was the magnificent 15-tiered zig-zag pass, with turns so sharp they feel like they could overturn your vehicle, drawing in countless experienced riders eager to conquer it.
In the Tày language, 'Khau' means 'pass,' and 'Cốc Chà' is the name of a Tày village at the pass summit, also referring to a type of tree abundant in this area. This pass, which goes through Cốc Chà village, was therefore named Khau Cốc Chà.

The scenic route winds through poetic villages, past picturesque rice fields and terraced farms, beautiful as a painting.

Traditional stilt houses of the highland ethnic communities, subtly appearing amidst swaying bamboo groves.
Standing atop Pác Thốc Mountain, overlooking Khau Cốc Chà Pass and the Đồng Mu valley in the heart of Xuân Trường commune, Bảo Lạc district, Cao Bằng, it becomes clear why in recent years, backpackers consistently choose Bảo Lạc as their stopover instead of the larger surrounding towns.
Thiên Di, a female backpacker well-known in various travel communities, shared: "For those of us with a passion for travel, this is one of those routes we return to whenever we get the chance; especially now that the 'Four Great Passes' have become too crowded and even dangerous due to increasing traffic.
Furthermore, this is also the route we frequently use when traveling from the frontier of the nation – Đồng Văn Stone Plateau – to Cao Bằng, as part of our Northeast loop adventure. The road runs along National Highway 4C, sometimes diverging, sometimes converging close to the jade-green Nho Quế River, before joining National Highway 34 alongside the winding Gâm River throughout the journey."

Khau Cốc Chà Pass, located in Bảo Lạc district, Cao Bằng province, began construction in 2009 and was inaugurated for use in 2011.
Vàng A Chữ, a Hmong ethnic resident of Xuân Trường commune, excitedly shared: “Less than a decade ago, locals wanting to traverse this pass to the summit of Mẻ Pia only had one means of transport: horses. Those pack horses, straining their backs to climb the formidable 15-tiered slopes, have now gradually been replaced by more convenient and faster motorized vehicles.”
Recently, in early July 2023, the province began redeveloping this road, more than 10 years after its initial opening, investing approximately 39 billion VND for upgrades, maintenance, and repairs. The project is expected to be completed by the end of 2023. Vàng A Chữ advises all travel enthusiasts eager to conquer these passes to avoid this period for their safety and convenience.

From Khau Cốc Chà, continue a short distance to the summit of Mẻ Pia Pass to proceed through the rocky terrain of Hà Giang.

In the Tày language, Nà Tềnh means 'high field.' This beautiful and challenging 20-tiered pass borders Cần Nông commune in Hà Quảng district and Xuân Trường commune in Bảo Lạc district, very close to the border area.
Finally, there's the 'King of Passes,' Nà Tềnh, located in Cần Nông commune, Hà Quảng district. It lies on National Highway 4A, along the same route as Khau Cốc Chà Pass and about 18 km further, but it is even more winding and longer. Just past the summit of this pass, you enter Bảo Lạc district. Previously, the road was in terrible condition and extremely difficult to traverse, but it has now been repaired, making travel much more convenient.
While Khau Cốc Chà Pass leaves riders breathless with its 15 steep tiers, like stairs leading to the sky, Nà Tềnh Pass unfolds like a soft silk ribbon with 20 winding turns, weaving through villages amidst terraced rice fields glistening with water, shimmering like overlapping fish scales, creating an incredibly picturesque landscape.

Nà Tềnh has been dubbed the 'King of Passes' by backpackers due to its treacherous route with 20 challenging hairpin bends and winding sections.
According to Mr. Hoàng Chí Bảo, a local tour guide from this region, traveling from Cao Bằng City to Hà Giang via this route is about 21 km shorter than taking National Highway 34. Moreover, the scenery along the pass is absolutely magnificent.
Motorcycle enthusiasts traveling between Cao Bằng and Hà Giang often prefer this winding route with its continuous series of bends, eager to test their riding skills. However, during this season of storms and winds, everyone should check the weather forecast, as heavy rain can lead to dangerous landslides and slippery conditions, Guide Bảo cautioned.
Cao Bang 6127 view
Update day : 16/07/2023
Source : Du lịch TP Hồ Chí Minh Affiliate links
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